Well, smack my behind and call me Sally!
I am not kidding here when I say, that THIS. SOIL. IS. PERFECT.
If you’re new to the gardening world, or maybe if you just want to improve on what you’ve already got, you’ve probably just made the best pit stop of your life today on my website.
Sit down and dig in.
‘Cause this soil’s about to blow your mind!
The most common mistake for raised garden bed soil.
We’ve all made mistakes in our gardens, but starting with INCORRECT soil is probably the greatest grievance that could occur.
The biggest mistake is when you fill your raised garden boxes
with ONLY POTTING SOIL or COMPOST.
It’s a big no-no, my friend. If you’ve filled your raised garden bed with only potting soil or compost, the following things will occur:
- Your soil will drain too quickly, washing away water and nutrients.
- Your plants will starve.
- You will be sad.
The fact is that raised garden boxes are not pots. Period. You see, a raised garden bed is completely different than a pot on your porch. It’s open to the earth. It’s a living, breathing, soil, and you need to treat it that way.
Other NO-NO’s:
- NEVER add organic material like straw, grass, or wood chips INTO your soil. They work great for the TOP of the soil to use as mulch to keep in moisture, but NEVER as an amendment INTO the soil. If you want to change this organic material into compost, then get a composter and add water and mix until the microbes break it down correctly.
- NEVER add organic material like chicken, sheep, goat, horse, or cow manure into your garden. IT MUST be composted first, as in, IT MUST no longer look like poop anymore or have poop-like shapes. IF you want to change this organic material into compost, then stick it in a pile, add water and mix weekly until the microbes break it down correctly.
The BEST soil combination for Raised Garden Boxes
After you’ve built your fabulous raised garden boxes with the correct materials, it’s time to fill ’em up! The goal should be to create an ecosystem for plants which is well aerated yet retains moisture and nutrients, feeds the roots, encourages worms and other microbial activity, and is in essence a living, breathing soil.
I promise you that if you fill your raised garden boxes correctly, your plants will FLOURISH every time.
The best soil combination for raised garden beds should have two parts:
- A good base or growing medium.
- High quality amendments to feed your plants.
Part ONE | The growing medium
Your raised garden box soil should contain the following:
50% of your growing medium should be COMPOST (buy at a local nursery or here online)
Compost is created when somebody takes raw organic material and adds water and air. Over time the microbes break it down into an organic matter that looks nothing like the original materials that were put in. The purpose of compost is to provide the perfect situation for microbial growth.
- You can get animal-based compost, which is chicken, goat, sheep, horse, or cow manure that has broken down to the point where you can’t tell it’s poop any longer.
(Names for animal-based compost: Aged-manure, composted manure, etc.)
OR - You can get plant-based compost, which is wood chips, grass clippings, straw, leaves, kitchen scraps (and sometimes egg shells).
(Names for plant-based compost: Compost, organic composted material, potting soil – has other ingredients too, but for the most part is composted material.)Both work BEAUTIFULLY as a growing medium. You should never plant in compost alone, but it should be at least 30-50% of your garden soil, whether you are creating your own soil in raised garden boxes or you’re adding it to your existing soil for in-ground planting.
50% of your growing medium should be COCONUT COIR (buy at a local nursery or here online)
Coconut coir is the natural fiber obtained from the husk of coconuts. It’s completely sustainable as opposed to the commonly used peat moss or sphagnum moss, which takes thousands of years to redevelop. The purpose of coconut coir is to keep the soil aerated while retaining moisture and nutrients. Coconut coir also has a neutral pH, unlike peat or sphagnum, which is more acidic. (The only exception on when I use peat or sphagnum are when I am growing plants that need an acidic environment, like strawberries or blueberries)
Part TWO | The plant food
Adding these amendments will ensure your plants have plenty of food to grow into nutrient-rich plants.
- Worm Castings – where to buy (1 bag per 3×8 raised garden box) – Worm castings are essentially worm poop. Oh boy though, does that worm poop carry with it gold for your garden! This is such a great soil enricher and food for your plants because it not only provides a good source of nitrogen, it also attracts more worms into your garden. Worms = healthy garden.
- Azomite – where to buy (2 lb. for every 3×8 raised garden box) – Azomite is essentially rock dust. It’s got lots of minerals and trace elements that you want back in your garden. Mineral depletion in our soil today is a real thing. Add it to your soil and your garden will thank you with high-yield produce!
- Mycorrhizal Fungi – where to buy (1/2 cup for every 3×8 raised garden box) – Mycorrhizal Fungi is a fungus that already exists in the soil, but it’s vital to add because it plays a very important part in creating a web of fungus that feeds the roots of your plants.
- Fish Emulsion Water – where to buy (1/2 cup + 5 gallon bucket of water for the first watering) – This is optional, but I like to add one more thing to my soil and that is a bucket-full of fish emulsion water. Fish emulsion is an overall nutrient booster and provides nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium along with trace elements.
Layering your soil into your raised garden boxes
If you’re curious how it all should come together in your boxes, check out my video below for the complete tutorial! After you’re finished, it’s time to plant with my 5 Easy-to-Grow Vegetables for Beginners!
Hi! I’m wondering if once I’ve set my boxes up like this, can I continue to use it again each year, or will I need to relayer each year?
Hi Stephanie-
You can use it each year without layer everything, but you will need to add the soil amendments because the soil can become depleted during the growing season.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I don’t know if you still look at these comments –
Do you mix the layers or leave them alone as layers?
Also, is it truly a 50/50 mix of compost and Coir? From the video it seems you use about twice as much compost. But I just don’t know for certain, and would love your insight. Thank you
Hi Logan-
No, do not mix the layers. And yes use a 50/50 mix.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hey DaNelle! Thankyou so much for the tips!
I am looking forward to this gardening season….I thinks its going to be interesting.
( I hope the catipilars don’t get everything 🙁 )
I am just starting a raised garden bed and am a total newbie. I live in Tucson, Az and have a space in my back yard that is perfect for the garden, but it would be on a concrete slab. Is this a no go?
Hi Kristine-
Heat can transfer to your beds from the concrete, which can continue to release heat even after the sun sets. This could possibly overheat or dry out your plants, increasing water needs. You can always place a thermometer in your garden area to check the heat and make sure it’s not becoming too hot for your plants.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
This is my first year using your soil mix, and it has done very well in the 100+ temperatures. I am having an issue after the first heavy monsoon rain with my tomatoes. We received heavy rain two days ago, and then some more steady rain last night. I noticed the leaves wilting on my Roma and Better Boy tomatoes, and starting to slightly on my Cherrys. Cucumbers and peppers still looking good.
I am wondering if it could be a drainage issue, and the wet soil drowning outthe tomatoes Have you had any issues with this after heavy summer rains?
Hi Justin-
Yes, one of the first signs of poor drainage and roots becoming waterlogged is wilting leaves. You will need to fix your soil drainage problem. This article can help with that: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/yard-drainage-problems.htm
Good luck with your garden!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
When do you recommend starting to supplement additional fertilizer after planting in tomato/pepper/cucumber garden in your raised bed mix? And is there any type of fertilizer you would recommend? Thank you.
Hi Bert-
The fertilizers are what DaNelle suggests in Part 2. She puts them in at the beginning. You can add them again later in the growing season if your soil is becoming depleted. Some signs of soil depletion are that plants are not growing well or are discolored. To know exactly what is depleted you can get your soil tested. Contact your local county’s Master Gardeners to help with this.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello. Thank your for post. I’ve read that coconut coir needs to be buffed with Cal-Mag otherwise plants will be depleted in calcium and magnesium. Thus far buffering seems to be on cannibis and hydroponic websites. I’d km using coconut coir in my vegetable garden, will I need to buff it? Did you notice any deficiency in your plants?
Hello-
No, DaNelle did not buffer it. She did add amendments as mentioned in the article.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Would you recommend using potting soil or compost for the first layer on top of the native soil?
Hi Justin-
The embedded video shows how DaNelle’s layers her garden boxes.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I was asking because the article says to use 50% compost, but the video uses potting mix instead of compost. Was curious if you would recommend one or the other.
Hi Justin-
The compost she links is an organic potting soil mix. If you are using something different then I would go with compost.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I have one last question. After I fill the bed halfway with compost,, put in the first layer of coconut coir and the amendments on top, the video says to start next layer with the potting soil or compost (but it kind of fast forwards through this part). How much compost should I be putting in this layer before topping it with the coconut coir/amendments? Thank you in advance for your help.
Hi Justin-
For the space you have left do a 50/50 of compost and coir then add amendments. It doesn’t have to be exact, just something close.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I bought several bags of garden soil and filled my raised bed before reading here and elsewhere that other blends should be used. My veggie plants seemed to be doing fine before being completely wiped out by some hungry critters. I’ve started some new seedlings and was wondering if I should replace the garden soil (or add compost or something else) before I plant the new seedlings.
Hi George-
It’s best to test your soil each year to know what it is deficient in and then add amendments accordingly.
Best of luck with you garden!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
We have a mole problem in our yard. What can I do to keep moles from digging up into the garden box? I was thinking putting chicken wire down and placing cardboard on top for the worms.
Hello-
Haven’t had to deal with moles. This article has some information on dealing with them: http://www.wildlife-removal.com/moleaway.html
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I had them bad in my front yard, grape bubble gum dropped into the holes. Done! The bubble gum stuffs up their system and kills them.
I would exercise caution when using coir, as the extraction process is harmful to the environment, harmful to people and it is not sustainable.
Isn’t it also deadly for dogs, or is that a different material?
Hello-
Yes, the same expansion that occurs from retaining water in your garden will occur in a dog’s digestive track if ingested and potentially cause blockage in the intestines.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Do you know of any more detailed information on these issues with the extraction of coconut coir?
My understanding was that it was an otherwise wasted material that was previously simply discarded.
Also, that its use keeps peat bogs & other ecosystems from being depleted simply for garden use.
Hi Rachel-
I think this article does a good job covering the pros and cons of both coconut coir and peat moss. https://www.gardeningchannel.com/peat-moss-vs-coco-coir-explained/
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi there
Should the topmost layer be soil or coir?
Thanks
Trish
Hi Trish-
It is the coconut coir with the amendments added in.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle”s Assistant)
Hello,
I live in Houston where it is hot but also rains quite a bit and is humid. My native soil is mostly clay which tends to drown a lot of what I plant so I want to exclude this from my bed. My bed dimensions are 88″x26″x26″ which is ~35 cuft of space. I’m looking to buy my soil in bulk and get a yard of a premium bed mix delivered and then add in the amendments. Can you please look over these 2 choices and tell me which you think would be better and then if I need to exclude any amendments from your list or not?
Option #1 -Premium Bed Mix – Premium soil is a blend of manure compost, humus compost, screened sandy loam, and coarse sand.
Option #2 – Professional Bed Mix – Consist of bio compost, hummus, and screened loam
Hi Chris-
Either one is a possibility, but it is dependent upon your climate and what you are trying to grow. To find that specific information contact your local county Master Gardeners and they can help you with that.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi.
I did almost the same as your instructions except that the soil I bought is raised bed mix which contains 50% compost and 50% planting mix and I combined everything before putting them in the raised beds. However, all of my plant’s leaves turned yellow and grows so slowly. What did I do wrong? Thank you!
Hello Nhung-
This link can give you possible reasons why your plants are turning yellow: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/plant-leaves-turn-yellow.htm
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi DaNelle,
Great post! I am building a raised garden bed in zone 7. It’s around 65 sq ft of planting area raised 20″ high. This is my first garden so I am new to preparing the soil. For the worm castings would it be better to purchasing live worms instead or have you had better results with the worm castings instead? In the video preparing the soil, is it better to keep the soil layered or after you put everything into the planter to mix the soil together? Also, do you recommend using Bone Meal? Do you have a rule of thumb or best practices for which vegetables or fruits to grow together and which ones to keep separate?
For living off the grid, which foods/herbs do you recommend to plant?
Thanks,
Rick
Hi Rick-
You can add worms, but I find worm castings are easier to manage. No, you do not need to mix the soil.
If you need to add phosphorus to your soil or you have a high nitrogen content soil, then yes bone meal can work. You should get your soil tested to know what you need to add.
This article can help with companion planting: https://www.weedemandreap.com/companion-planting-made-easy-peasy/
Grow any foods that you like, that grow well in your area, and create a variety of them so you have your macro and micronutrients covered.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi DaNelle,
Thank you for your response. I purchased a 40lbs of micronized azomite and I ended up using the whole bag not realizing later I was supposed to use 2lbs per 10 yards. Can you have too much azomite? The garden bed is about 65sqft on top and about 3-4 yards of soil. Have I over did it or is there still hope?
Should I discard half or all of the soil? Or should I just just mix it well so its not too concentrated in one area particularly the top 6″ of soil?
Thanks,
Rick
Hi Rick-
Azomite is not toxic and does not burn plants. So, you won’t be hurting the plants if you use too much, it’s just more expensive.
Mix it in well and let it go from there.
Thank you and happy gardening!
-Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I recently bought the black gold potting mix instead of the black gold potting soil. I am assuming the potting mix is lighter than the potting soil. Should I use less coconut coir since it is already lighter? Maybe 75% potting soil mix and 25% coconut coir (along with the other amendments)?
Hi Larry-
Yes, changing up the ratios should work as the mix will do some of the job of the coconut coir of keeping the soil aerated while retaining moisture and nutrients. Just be aware the mix will breakdown overtime and not be a very good growing medium.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Thank you so much for this post. I am starting my raised garden this week and was ready to do 50/50 with Coco coir and top soil with compost and amendments in it (fox farm ocean forest). Unfortunately, the coco I bought ends up being one that’s a mix of coco and perlite with small amounts of bat guano, worm castings and kelp. I am in Zone 10b with 2.5 feet x 4.5 feet box that’s 21 inches deep. I filled the first 25% of it with old branches, leaves, twigs (following Hugelkultur) and filling the rest with 50/50 mix listed above. Will there be any issues if I use that as the 50% coco and mix with the 50% topsoil (foxfarm)?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Andrea-
That should work fine. Just make sure it doesn’t dry out too quickly since you don’t have the native soil in the bottom.
Thanks! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi, I’m trying to put together the planting medium for my new garden box. I’m researching coir and finding it very confusing to order since the actual yield from the sizes listed is vague. I need 16 cubic feet to mix with my compose. Your recommendation of a 50 / 50 mix (compose / coir) is what I’m attempting. The link on your article to purchase coir is showing “unavailable” for that specific product. Can you help clarify how to determine the quantity I need to order. It’s most often listed in quarts or gallons, but not sure if that’s after water is added.. I need to order asap so I’d appreciate a response as soon as you have the time. Thank you!
Herman
Hi Herman-
1 cubic foot is ~7.5 gallons. 16 cubic feet equals ~120 gallons. On the packages of coconut coir you will find how many gallons it makes. A 11# package usually equals about 18-19 gallons. So you will need 6-7 packages of the 11# packages.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I live in Mesa Az. I have a 3′ ft wide 8′ long and 24Inch deep Garden box. I was reading your formula for the dirt and I watched the video. However, with that being said, I am not quite sure I understand the amounts. If I understand it correctly, I am thinking I should use a base of natural dirt of 4 to 6 inches followed by 8 inches of Compost, followed by 8 inches of the Coconut Coir then a level of the 3 additional nutrients. Is this correct?
Hi Jerry-
Yep, you got it!
Good luck with your garden!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Would you put permeable plastic down before placing soil mix in a 2 foot high raise garden bed?
Hi Nathaniel-
DaNelle does not put plastic down, but does use cardboard sometimes.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Your video doesn’t seem to match the previous suggestions on this page. Am I wrong? You talk about your 50/50 growing medium but it the video that isn’t mentioned. Just native dirt then potting soil then the additives. Where does the growing medium come in there?
Hi Michael-
The first 50% is the potting soil DaNelle uses (link in the article under the compost heading) which has compost in it and then the other 50% is the coconut coir.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Is it ok to put garden liner in the bottom of the raised bed? I want to prevent weeds from growing in it but would this stop earth worms from entering as well?
Hi Amy-
DaNelle does not put plastic down, but does use cardboard sometimes. This helps with weeds, but allows the worms to come though.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello. I am putting my soil together and am wondering if the worm casting might bring unwanted worms to my lettuce?
Hi Berlyn-
No, the worm castings shouldn’t. Never had any problems with it.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Good morning. I followed your recipe for raised bed soil last year. It was my first year with my garden and I think it performed pretty well. I’ve made about 15 – 20 lbs of compost since then too. How would you recommend I amend last years recipe for this season? Should I add more coir, manure, minerals? In any specified ratios?
Thank You
Dan
Hi Dan-
It’s best to test your soil each year to know what it is deficient in and then add amendments accordingly.
Best of luck with you garden!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hey DaNelle,
Have you heard of those “self-wicking” containers? I stumbled across a couple YouTube video “how-tos/DIY’s” for growing veggies. I live in the Pacific Northwest, zone 9 to be specific, and I am curios if you’ve tried anything like those before. I am beginning to set up a few smaller boxes for lettuces and spinach so far, trying to work out the vertical garden situation. But I have tomatoes and peppers that will need larger pots soon and wanted advice as to what you think about those self-wicking ones.
Our governor just extended our stay-at-home order through to May, so I now have lots of time to work on the gardening, with the homeschooling, too.??
I am the elementary school assistant librarian and recess teacher, my kids are & have been well equipped for homeschooling, for years!? #GirlScoutsareprepared
Anyway, thank you for the information about soil recommendations for raised beds. I don’t have those, but knowing what soil & amendments are needed is extremely helpful.
Thank you.
Hi Amy-
Definitely heard of these, especially for those growing African violets, however DaNelle hasn’t personally used them. They are supposed to be great. If you use them let us know how they work.
Thanks and good luck with everything!
-Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I have a raised bed that is 8 ft long x 4 ft wide and 13 inches deep. If my calculation is correct that is 34.67 cubic feet. If I am buying Earthworm casting that is 1 cubic feet per bag for $31.98 that would be a calculation of $31.98 x 31.67 cubic feet = $1,119.30. Does that seem right. Seems awful expensive for just that 1 component of the mixture. What am I doing wrong here?
Thank you so much! I appreciate you!
Hi Dawn-
In the article DaNelle only suggests 1 bag of worm castings per her 3’x8’ garden bed/box, so for your raised bed one bag would be sufficient, or if you really wanted you could add a little more. This is only an amendment and not meant to fill the entire garden bed/box.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Another option is to mix it with another composted material for this year, and next year build on it.
I see myself needing to do that this year. I will have to set aside $$ from my monthly paycheck for next years garden. I didn’t expect to be putting one in this year. But I don’t want to go to the store as often, especially for the things I can grow at home!
Your raised bed formula gave me the best crop of tomatoes I have ever had at this house. Now it will be year 2 and my question is: do I need to completely start over to get the results I had last year or can you recommend how I can amend it to have a great growing season this year?
Hi Nancy-
It would be best to test your soil to see what it is lacking and then amend accordingly. If you need help with that your local county Master Gardeners can assist you.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello! Can you help break down the math for how much of each product to buy, as in, how many bags/bricks? I see the percentages but that really doesn’t tell me how much to buy. My flower beds are 3′ wide, 6′ long, and 1′ foot deep. I have 4 now but will probably add 2 more. I’m not the greatest with math so any way you can break this down would be enormously helpful. Thank you!
Hi Rebecca-
Just figure the cubic size/volume (width x length x height) of your boxes and then look on the bags. It should say how many cubic square feet or inches it’ll cover and then you will know approximately how much you need. Even if it’s not exact this combination is pretty forgiving.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi, Danelle! I was wondering, do we add Worm casting, Fungi, AND azomite? Or do we just choose one? And after that, do we still need to add top soil or anything else? Or do we only add the ingredients listed here?
Love your YouTube! I didn’t know you had a website too! Yay!
Hi NJ-
You will want to add all of the soil amendments suggested in the article and video. You will not need to add additional topsoil, but you can water with fish emulsion as suggested in the video for your first watering.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello DaNelle. I just came across your video. Can you please tell me, after following the recipe and layering, then putting our plants in, do we still have to fertilize our plants every month with e.g. fish & seaweed emulsion, or will this rejuvenated ‘soil’ recipe be nutrient-rich enough for several months, half a year?
Hi Tania-
It depends on what you plant and how much that depletes your soil. To accurately know what you need to add to fertilize the soil for what you intend to grow, you need to do a soil test. Your local county extension office Master Gardeners can help you with this.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello! I’m not seeing a video on how to layer the soil! It’s blank in the space.
Hi Elizabeth-
The video should be embedded in the article, but you can also click here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OAMf9JEckFI
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello! Will this work for direct planting in the ground? I have terrible clay native soil but no planting beds as I want to plant rows of flowers.
Hi Mirmy-
Yes, you can amend your soils with this and it should work for your flowers.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Thanks for the great article! We have both raised cedar veggie boxes and above-ground boxes.
Question: the neighborhood cats sometimes use the ground boxes to poop in! Is this harmful for my veggies? Should I not use the above ground boxes to grow veggies?
Hi Judy-
You can still use them to grow vegetables, but you will need to be diligent about washing your vegetables/fruit and hands before eating the produce and after working in the garden. Also, it is best to garden with gloves on so you don’t come into contact with parasites, etc.
This article has some good advice about cats and gardens: http://acmg.ucanr.edu/files/214548.pdf
I hope that helps!
Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Thank you so much!
Canadian Spaghnum Peat moss is renewable and a much better alternative to coco coir. It is highly regulated to ensure the peat bogs are growing faster than harvested. Add a little crushed eggshells (CaCO3) to neutralize the acidity of the peat.
Hi DaNelle,
I’m a raised garden newbie, and have a couple of questions on this article. So am I understanding correctly that I need 50% coir, and 50% compost, and ZERO top soil? My other question, you mention 1 bag of worm castings per 3×8 bed, is that 1 15 pound bag, or 1 4.5 pound bag (I see on your Amazon link, that they sell both sizes). Thanks in advance for your reply!
Hi Lydia-
Yes, you’ve got it right. And it’s the 15lb bag.
Thank you and good luck on your raised gardens!
-Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello,
I recently built some raised cedar box planters (do not contact the ground), do you think this soil recipe would work for them? My concern is the water drainage.
Thanks.
Hi Michael-
Yes, the soil combination should work for them. Not sure where your boxes will be located, but you can drill holes in the bottom of your boxes to help with drainage.
Best wishes!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Sorry, I see this is an older post but I just stumbled across your page. What is the advantage of layering? Why not just mix and amend it all before you put it in the box?
Hi Mariam-
Layering creates a long-term growing environment that holds onto moisture during dry summers, yet still allows drainage, and it releases nutrients slowly.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! My Zinnias are thriving and I took a ph test and I was right around 6.5-7! This is the the best recipe!!
I have 2 existing 4×8 raised garden beds. If I understand your article correctly, I can revive the soil with adding worm castings, Azimuth, fish emulsion water and Mycorrhizal fungi and it should be good to go?
Thank you for your help in this matter,
Monica
Hi Monica-
Yes, adding amendments will improve your soil.
Although it is suggested the major portion of your soil be compost and coconut coir. So, if what you have in your boxes now is different, this can affect plant growth and soil drainage.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
This is great, thanks so much! Any articles on how to plant seeds into the vegetable boxes. It’s my first time doing this. Thanks!
Hi Billy-
Here are some articles that can help you out: https://www.weedemandreap.com/planning-your-garden-vegetables/
https://www.weedemandreap.com/starting-vegetable-garden/
I hope that helps! Good luck with your garden!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello, I’m getting my beds ready and wanted to know how long do I have to wait to plant after getting beds ready? What veggies or fruits do you recommend for this mixture of soil?
Hi Portia-
You can plant your garden as soon as you get your soil and boxes ready. DaNelle uses this soil for almost all of her garden plants.
Here is an article that can help get you started: https://www.weedemandreap.com/starting-vegetable-garden/
Thank you and Happy Gardening!
-Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi, thanks for the info! I had raised beds a few years back that I lined with cardboard, but once it broke down, the weeds and grass came back with a vengeance and were impossible to get rid of. I was planning on laying down landscaping fabric, but then the worms will not be able to come up into the boxes. How much cardboard do you suggest laying down to prevent the weeds and grass from coming back? Thank you!
Hi Melody-
It’s best to go with just one layer of cardboard, but make sure all the pieces overlap by 2-3 inches. I hope that helps and your garden grows wonderfully!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
What a helpful guide! Thank you for making this! I have just one question – in your video I didn’t see you add in compost. Did I miss it? Thanks!
Hi Allison-
Great question! The potting soil DaNelle uses (link in the article under the compost heading) has compost in it. I can’t vouch for all potting soils, but the Black Gold is a great mix. I hope that helps. Thank you for the kind words and Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi, I just watched the raised bed layering video and i was a great step by step, until you lost me. It was cardboard, native soil, potting soil, coconut core, earthworm castings, azomite, fungi – then all of a sudden in the next clip, the garden box was full. What do I add to the top half of the garden box, after the 3 additives, to fill the garden box??? And where do I add the compost.
Also, should I add worms (night crawlers) myself to the gardening mix to help the process?
I have all my organic or non gmo veggie plants, the wood for the planter boxes, organic potting soil, organic compost, organic sphagnum, just need the 3 additives, and I’m excited to get going. Just looking forward to your answer on the question above. Thanks so much for your time and all the great info on your site.
Hi Lid-
Yes, the video cuts out some of the physical work of putting in the soil, etc. for times sake, and gets a bit confusing. There is a little blurb on the bottom of the video clip (about minute 6) that let’s you know to repeat steps 3-5 to get to the top of your garden box. As for the compost, the potting soil DaNelle is working with has compost in it. If you are using a potting soil that doesn’t, just mix in compost with the potting soil as you put it in. If you are using just compost, put it in when it asks for potting soil.
You can add worms if you like, but it is not a necessity, as they will eventually work themselves up through the cardboard into the garden box.
Best of luck with your garden boxes!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I’m reading thru the comments and other links found within… we are just starting our journey to move our garden above ground after I was paralyzed 4 years ago and can no longer bend over for any length of time. We’re planning on having the boxes at about waist-height, and they are around a foot deep. Since the bottom will not be in contact with the ground, I need to find a material to keep the soil in and still allow drainage of extra water…. I’m also looking at the perfect soil mix you are recommending to make sure I start off on the right foot.
Any tips you can provide are greatly appreciated as we wait for the feet of snow to melt before we can get these in place.
Thanks!
Hi Juli-
That’s fantastic you are making garden boxes so you can keep on gardening!
It sounds like you are doing great planning them out already.
Advice I can offer is to drill holes in the bottom and then cover with plastic and then poke hole through the plastic.
This allows water to go through, but protects plants from any sealant you may have used.
I hope that helps!
Best wishes for you and your garden! I hope the snow melts soon!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi, Thank you for the post.
1) I live in zone 5b and I am planning to transfer seedlings grown indoors to raised beds in Spring. Do you recommend using such highly nutrient-rich mix for plants so tiny? I am worried that it will cause nutrient burn.
2) I saw in other comments that the pH is over 8 if the raised beds are prepared this way. Please let me know what you use to lower the pH, when and how much (assuming that the soil test results come out with pH~8).
Hi Shilpa-
For whatever you are planting you need to know the nutrient needs of those plants and what nutrients your soil currently has and what the pH is. Most plants prefer a lower pH. So if you find you need to lower the soil pH, you can do this by adding organic matter, like composted manure or acidic mulches such as pine needles. This method will take awhile to lower the pH. You can also add sulfur products such as elemental sulfur, aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, or sulfur coated urea. What you are growing will determine which one you will need. Most of these are available at your local garden center.
Before adding anything to your soil though you should always get it tested first to know your baseline. For help with this contact your local County Extension Master Gardeners. They can help you test soil, know which plants grow well in your area, what your seedlings need, etc.
I hope that help! Best of luck and Happy Gardening!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I live in Wisconsin and my base soil is clay. I don’t understand why I need to put more of it at bottom of raised bed. Also, when you said “repeat” what exactly does that mean, repeat starting with “native soil” ? And if potting soil is not useful for raised gardens, why do we buy it and use it? If the top layer is coir will the first knuckle test for moisture work or should I use a probe? I know, so many ?s, thanks for all your help. ♧ Sheila. Ps. Have ?s about goats too but will save for later. 🙂
Hi Shelia-
The native soil is added to create a good and cost efficient base for your garden box, helping regulate moisture retention appropriate for your area. Repeat, as shown in the video, refers to steps 3-5 of the video, meaning the potting soil, coconut coir, and the amendments. Potting soil is used because it is a good growing medium when used in conjunction with the other soil combo ingredients. Used alone it doesn’t retain water and is not efficient. You can use the knuckle test, but I find for true accuracy a probe is best no matter the growing medium. I hope that helps!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
What is the yearly maintenance for these beds? Will I have to get all of these amendments every year or every couple of years? Or is it just once and done.
Hi Rachael-
You will need to tend to your beds every year. It really depends on what you plant and how much the fruits and veggies you planted depleted your soil. It would be best to test your soil each year and see what nutrients it is low on and then amend accordingly. I hope that helps. Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
hi soon is fall and I got all my compost , soil, coconut coir to mix together, but I would like to know , can I also mix right now all other ingredient as azomite, mycorrhizal fungi, fish emulsion worm casting. to be ready for the spring next years , or is the best I wait in the spring to add those before planting.
thanks …
Louisette
Hi Louisette-
Many organic fertilizers release their nutrients slowly over several months. Applying them in the fall can help the nutrients be more available to your garden plants next spring. I hope that helps! Happy Gardening!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
HI Micorizi inoculant should be sprinkled on plant roots when planting or you can sprinkle on seeds before sewing . It needs to be in contact with plant roots to be effective !
Are you suggesting in your downloadable “ultimate soil gude” that if we want to do in-ground planting (NOT raised boxes) that we should NOT use coconut coir to amend the native dirt,? If so, why is that? Or is that suggestion only for people who are doing in-ground planting in places that already have fairly good, water-retentive dirt? In addition to my raises boxes, I want to experiment with some in-ground plantings, despite having perfectly horrible, high chalk, non-fertile dirt, and was planning to make a small plot where I mix both coconut coir and my homemade compost (and worm castings) into the native dirt. Is that a mistake? Would it be better to mix in only compost and worm castings, and not the coconut coir?
Hi Shira-
You can use coconut coir in all your garden areas, not just raised boxes. It can help with the soil structure along with helping conserve water. Best of luck!
Thanks -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Don’t beat me but I want to clarify one of my many questions already posted—
I want to use homemade compost instead of the specific branded potting mix you suggest. (Actually, my bed is already filled with pure homemade compost… , and I want to add stuff to fix it now–) Your potting soil contains already perlite. So, since I don’t have that in the mix, would adding vermiculite (in a 1:1:1 ratio of coco coir: compost:vermiculite, like in a modified “Mel’s mix”) be important? Do you feel perlite is better than vermiculite when used with coconut coir? I read perlite floats up to the top with time… But I also read a comment somewhere that while vermiculite is best with peat, perlite might be better with coco coir because coco coir and might make a too heavy mix????
I think either one should work, but it will depend on your soil and climate. Just know that vermiculite retains water better than perlite, but perlite aids in aeration more. So depending on what you need based on climate, you should choose accordingly. As a side note, if you are purchasing either product know your source and be sure both are mined in an ecological and environmentally safe manner. I hope that helps! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Thank you so much for your help!!!!!!
5)Any opinion on effectiveness of using alfalfa pellets dissolved in water (horse feed) in place of the fish emulsion you describe?
THANKS!!!!!! Hope was OK to ask so many questions!!!
Alfalfa pellets can work well to add nitrogen to your garden, however you need to balance the phosphorus and potassium ratio as well. Often fish emulsion gives the ratio on the product you purchase so you know what you are adding. This may be more difficult if using alfalfa pellets.
4) I have rock dust made from zeolite and basalt rock dust. Is that a fine substitute for the azomite? Will the rock dust stay in the soil mix or will it get washed out with watering?
If I use vermiculite and the zeolite/basalt rock dust, is that actually too many minerals???
It may or may not be too many minerals, testing your soil before you begin will give you the best indication of what you need to add. You can use those products instead of azomite and it should work just fine.
3) You talk in video about using a 1 inch layer of worm castings and 2 cups of azomite. Those measurements of worm casting and azomite are for how thick a layer of coconut coir and compost?
The compost fills up about half of the garden box and the coconut coir is about 2-3 inches thick.
But how full do u make the box before you repeat the whole process again
Hi Jen-
With the size of box DaNelle uses it fills up half. If you have a much larger or smaller box it will be different.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
2) what is your opinion of growing medium mixes containing coconut coir, compost and vermiculite in 1:1:1 ratio? (a modified “mel’s mix, using coco coir instead of peat) .
As the mix breaks down over the years, will it loose its aerating and water holding abilities?
I live in an area where summers are very very dry and hot but winters are rain rain rain. Any modifications I should make to your suggested mix to avoid that my planting mix becomes waterlogged in the winter? The native “soil” in my yard (the tiny bit of it that there is above the limestone rock has extremely high chalk content and must be very alkaline.
Soil does need to be tested each year and amended accordingly for nutrients and pH. The ratio you suggested should work, but if you find too much water is being held, add more vermiculite (1:1:2) or use the larger diameter vermiculite for better aeration.
Thanks for very instructive article and video! I have lots of questions and have divided it into 5 separate comments
1) I’ve read that coconut coir needs to be rinsed well to remove excess sodium and then “buffered” by a complicated soaking with calcium and magnesium salts to re-equilibrate the ion exchange capacity of the coco coir so that it doesn’t hold on to Ca++ and Mg++, making them unavailable to the plants. I also read that some coco coir sold now has already been “buffered”, but I have no idea if the one I bought has been (I have bought it in compressed brick form). What is your view on this? Is the buffering really only necessary if the coir is used alone for hydroponic growing, and not if it is mixed with compost and the amendments as you describe??
Hi Shira-
Yes, it is best to rinse coconut coir to remove salt and then also buffer it. This is more critical when using hydroponically, not so much for garden use. Soil can actually buffer the coconut coir, but you need to know what’s in your soil. Soil test you garden and you will be able to know what nutrients your soil needs, including the calcium and magnesium. I don’t know if your coconut coir is buffered, but if the package doesn’t say that it is, I am assuming it isn’t. However, I am sure visiting the company’s website or contacting them directly will help you figure that out. Thanks -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I have 2 questions:
#1: Can vermiculite replace the azomite?
#2: Can peat moss replace the coconut coir?
Hi Disera-
The use of coconut coir versus peat and sphagnum moss is explained in the article. Coconut coir is your best bet. Azomite is mined in Utah from ancient volcanic eruptions and has over 70 trace minerals. Vermiculite also has trace minerals and can make available other minerals in the soil. However, at one time there was a scare concerning asbestos from one mine in Montana. That mine is no longer used, but most vermiculite is now mined overseas. So that’s the difference, so it’s your choice, but I still think Azomite is the way to go. I hope that helps.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi..I am planning a small 8.5 square foot raised garden bed. How much would I need? I am thinking 4 square feet of potting soil, 4 square feet of coco coir, 1 bag (15 lb) earthworm casings, 4 lbs azomite, 1 bag fungi & 1 cup fish emulsion. Does this sound correct? Thanks in advance!
Hi Jeanie-
Yep, that sounds like it will work. Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I followed this mostly except i used about 12 bags of top soil, 1 brick of coco coir, and 5 bags of cow manure compost for a 3×8×12″deep bed. Also added the bag of azomite, mycorrhizal fungi, as well as the fish emulsion. Plated about 10 days ago and everything is doing great and starting to grow wonderfully! My question to you is will I have to fertilize anymore throughout the season? Or should this be good enough to last the season? I did a square foot garden with different lettuce,, beets, onions, cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, some herbs, and a few bell pepper varieties and a few hot peppers. My bed seems to be draining very well yet still retaining moisture. I haven’t mulched yet, but was debating using straw on top. Would you recommend using straw or something else?
Hi Mike-
You should be good to go on fertilizer for this year. After the growing season is over though, you may want to do some soil testing and see if your soil is depleted in anyway and you can amend based on the soil test findings.
For mulch you can definitely use straw. Wood chips or shredded wood bark also work well. This link to BHG gives a great overview of the types of mulch available and the pros and cons of each: https://www.bhg.com/gardening/yard/mulch/the-best-mulches/
I hope that helps! Best of luck and Happy Gardening!
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi there… dumb question, but after you load in the soil and amendments and fish fertilizer, how long should you wait to plant or can you plant immediately?
Hi Mel-
You can go ahead and plant immediately. Happy gardening! Thanks -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello,
another dumb question. I am establishing my raised beds at the end of august but I only want to plant next spring. Should I put the ammendments into to raised bed now or only before planting in spring.
Your answer is appreciated,
Hi Aniko-
I prefer to prepare my beds in the fall and let them mellow through the winter. I do soil testing in the very early spring to make sure I have the proper ratio of nutrients and my pH is good to go. Most springs I find the garden is good to go, but if I have any issues I add the needed amendments before I plant. I hope that that answers your questions. Thank you -Bobbi
Hi, would this mix work with flowers as well? I am a newbie to planting.
Yep, it will work with flowers too.
Hi DaNelle! I live in Long Beach, CA and I am excited to follow your steps in a layered approach to successful gardening! I bought each item, including the coconut coir which I never heard of before, but I have a question. The three wood containers my husband made me are each 2 feet off the ground and there are 2″ x 2″ slates of support beams across the bottom of each one, 3″ apart. I have clean sheets of cardboard, black weed killer material and general clear plastic sheeting. How would you suggest I line the bottom and the sides? Or what other material would you use?
Hi Lisa-
I would just line them with the cardboard. I don’t think the rest is necessary. If you haven’t watched DaNelle’s video on how to layer your raised garden beds, check it out here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAMf9JEckFI
I hope that helps! Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello, I just discovered your blog. Thank you for this post on raised garden bed soil, that I can actually understand. I already have an established garden bed with soil in it from last year (all potting soil with some composted manuer on top, had no idea what I was doing). How much more of this soil mixture should I add? I am assuming I do need to empty the bed and start over.
Hi Nicole-
I don’t think you need to empty your beds. I would just add some coconut coir and the other amendments suggested in this article (fish emulsion, etc.). Mix it nicely and it should be ok. Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello I was wondering if there is a plant based alternative to the fish fertilizer?
Hi Ashley-
You can try kelp or seaweed fertilizer, but I can’t guarantee that it will have the same NPK ratio.
I hope that helps.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
What is the pH of this mixture? Will tomatoes grow in this? I have just made my bed with all these ingredients and I am just trying to figure out what will grow best here. I only have 4×4 space. Thank you.
Hi Sherri-
The compost/organic soil that is suggested has a pH of 8.5 and the coconut coir is neutral. Tomatoes typically grow best in a pH of 6.5-7. I hope that helps. Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Since you told me the pH of this soil is 8.5, I have checked many gardening websites, and I don’t see any vegetables that like a pH of 8.5. I am so confused. Should I add something else to lower the pH to 6.5-7.0? If so, when do I add it? I planted squash already and they looked healthy but now the few squash I have on the vines are turning brown, and I don’t know what’s wrong. I think this year is a bust, but I would like to know what to do for next year if it’s a pH problem. Thank you
That’s correct, most plants prefer a lower pH. So yes, you will need to lower your garden soil pH. You can do this by adding organic matter, like composted manure or acidic mulches such as pine needles. This method will take awhile to lower the pH. You can also add sulfur products such as elemental sulfur, aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, or sulfur coated urea. What you are growing will determine which one you will need. Most of these are available at your local garden center.
Before adding anything to your soil though you should always get it tested first. For help with this contact your local County Extension Master Gardeners.
As for your squash turning brown, that can be a result of several things including dry conditions, poor pollination, or pest insects (squash bugs & vine borers).
So for next year, test your soil and add in any amendments to alter your pH and nutrient content. To plant flowers to attract pollinators check out this article: https://www.weedemandreap.com/grow-butterfly-garden/
To keep pests out of your garden plant companion plants found here: https://www.weedemandreap.com/companion-planting-made-easy-peasy/
I hope all this helps.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I made this mix except I used mini fir bark instead of coconut coir. My pH also is too high at around 8. Plants don’t do well that alkaline so I’m starting to use soil sulphur etc. How did you bring the pH down?
If I used the soil recipe for this season the following planting season would I have to add anything to the soil!?
Hi Jonathon-
It depends on what you grow, and what those plants take out or add to the soil. Certain plants can deplete your soil and others can add nitrogen, etc. to it. If you really want to know if you need to amend your soil with anything, it is best to do a soil test. Your local county extension office can help you do this. Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello,
I’m new to gardening and am building some tall beds. Largest bed being 14x3x2 . My first questions is if this soil mix provided is organic? Second, filling these large beds with the mix provided seems it could be expensive. Is there a method you would advise on that would be less cost effective but keeping the same soil recipe. (Ex: more compost on bottoms half, more native soil on bottom) Any advice helps and is appreciated. Cheers!
Hi Michael-
Yes, the link to the Black Gold compost DaNelle has in the article is organic. You really need to keep your soil mix at 50% compost and 50% coconut coir. Since your beds are so large, layering the bottom with additional native soil might work to fill the beds and save some money. I hope that helps! Best of luck. Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Should i use strictly compost for the 50% or is a compost topsoil mix good as well? And then add the choir and other amendments. Thank You
Compost is your best option unless you have some really great nutrient rich topsoil.
What are your thoughts on mixing animal (alpaca manure) and plant based compost together for my 50% compost. Also, my beds are 2ft high, I watched the video , I know roots aren’t going to grow 2 feet down it’s more so my mom doesn’t have to bend. What measurements would you recommend for the native soil before I start with the compost and amendments. I was thinking a foot. Thank you.
Yes, you could use the manure and plant based compost, just make sure the manure has composted, or you have made it into a tea, first and is not put on fresh, as it will be too “hot” (too much nitrogen and will burn your plants).
Yes, a foot would be good and your plants should do just fine. Thanks
My hubby and I love your information on soil. We are purchasing your items now.
I do have a question. How much Coconut Coir do I purchase for 2 – 16×4 beds and 1 – 4×4 bed? Each bed is 1 foot deep. Also, how much of this do you put into the bed?
Thanks again
Hi Tabitha-
Just figure the volume of you beds (length x width x height), in this case it would be 2 x 64feet^3 and 16feet^3. So that is the total volume of your beds, and you want to make 50% of that coconut coir. I hope that helps. Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Is there a reason why perlite isn’t used in this soil recipe?
Hi Maggie-
The compost DaNelle links to on amazon has perlite in the mix. If you want to add additional perlite go for it, especially if your soil compacts easily. Just know the source you are buying from. Some perlite is not mined in an ecological fashion. I hope that helps! Thank you -Bobbi
In the article you say half the mix should be compost but in the video I didn’t see when you add compost in… I just saw coconut coir, potting mix and amendments… what am I missing??
Hi Katie-
Great question! The potting soil DaNelle uses (link in the article under the compost heading) has compost in it. I can’t vouch for all potting soils, but the Black Gold is a great mix. I hope that helps. Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Thanks Bobbi. So is all garden soil just compost? Should I just buy compost and and layer with coconut coir and amendments?
Garden soil isn’t completely compost, usually there is some native soil in it, at least layered on the bottom, but every garden is different. You have the right idea though. Go with that plan and you will have a great garden! Thanks -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I’m so excited that I found this information! I’ve been doing research on making raised beds and want to start a few raised beds. I’ve also seen where some are placing stones and cardboard, etc to the bottom of their beds. What is the purpose and do you recommend this before adding all the other items you mention?
Hi Beth-
Great you are doing your homework! The purpose of adding cardboard is to help block weeds and grass from growing up in your garden, plus the worms will eat it and it will bring more of them in. Which is great for your garden!
Most folks add stones or rock to their beds to improve drainage, but this is not always necessary. If you do choose to this it is best to use crushed rock or gravel. However, by adding in native soil and coconut coir your soil should drain and be aerated properly. DaNelle’s video here gives a great visual step-by-step on how to build your garden.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAMf9JEckFI
I hope that helps! Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I’m building a large raised bed garden and I’d like to use a mix like this. I see in the video that you first fill the bed halfway with potting soil. Would it work for me to get a load of topsoil and fill my beds halfway with that first? From what I understand potting soil is very different but I’m trying to build the best soil I can without it being prohibitively expensive! That coconut coir really gets expensive when you’re filling a lot of beds! Thanks for your help!
Hi Lauren-
Yes, top soil can work, especially if you add in the amendments DaNelle suggests. Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
I hope you see this in time. It didn’t occur to me to write sooner. LOL I’m going tomorrow into Houston and with a bunch of teenagers putting in a raised garden for the homeless community that I work with. We have the fish emulsion but I’m wondering if that’s the only time you use it is the first watering. Do you use the fish Emulsion water any other time during the season?
Hi Billie-
Yes, you can add the fish emulsion to the garden at other times as well, such as after the growing season to give your soil a boost if it has been depleted. It’s best to get your soil tested to know what it is deficient in so you can add the proper nutrients and in the correct amounts. Your local county extension office can help with this. Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Do you recommend this mix for larger clay pots and ceramic pots?
I plan to do all my veggies this way this year.
Love your site!
Thanks
Nancy from Crown Point, Indiana
Hi Nancy-
Yes, you can use this for those too. Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
What do you do to replenish your bed in between seasons? What needs to be replaced, added-to, etc? Thanks!
Hi Jim-
At the end of your growing season is best time to clean up your garden and incorporate additional compost or any of the amendments DaNelle suggests in the article that your garden may be depleted of from the previous growing season. Adding it in now lets the soil mellow and be ready to go when you begin planting. If you want to know what your garden is lacking it’s best to have your soil tested so you know what to add and how much. Your local county extension office can help you with soil testing and any recommendations for your local area.
I hope that helps! Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Just a quick question. We live in Phoenix. We saw your video and want to try it. In the video you use potting soil, but in the directions it says to use compost. Which should we use? Thanks!
Karen
Hi Karen-
DaNelle refers to using potting soil in humid climates. However, she still suggests to add the amendments she talks about. In Phoenix (and most areas) you should add compost.
I hope that helps! Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Great info. I used this soil combo exactly as you described it my first year gardening. I had issues with bugs/pests more than anything. Tomatoes were the only plant that yielded lots of fruit. Anyway, I am going to try again this year, my questions are: do i remove the top layer of mulch (doesn’t look like there is too much left)? Do I add worm castings as well as fish emulsion? Thank you.
Hi Maggie-
Before adding anymore nutrients to your soil, I would get is tested to see if you have low or high levels of nitrogen and/or phosphorus and what your pH is. Your local county extension office can help you with that. Also, here is another article DaNelle wrote about soil that may be helpful to you: https://www.weedemandreap.com/get-superpowered-garden-soil/
I hope this helps! Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
about 1/2 my family is allergic to coconut. I knew my brothers were so it wasn’t in the house but my first trip to Hawaii, on the very first day I went to a beach stand and bought suntan lotion. a guy walked up to my sister and asked what is wrong with your sister. she looked over to where I was laying on the beach and screamed. Apparently I was covered in huge red welts all over my skin. that was all I remember hearing. I have no memory of looking up or anything else. 4 days later I woke up in the hospital and spent all 9 days of my vacation in the hospital and have never been back. The doctor at the hospital back home in California said he has more people allergic to coconut than strawberries and shrimp combined. Now that I am grown with a family of my own, All of us are allergic to coconut. Needless to say when I even heard the word coconut I thought well this won’t work. Any suggestions for a replacement product? THANKS!
Hi Elizabeth-
There are few things you can use in place of the coconut coir. These include gypsum, pine sawdust and/or bark or composted manure, food by-products, and/or leaves. Do note that these items can change the pH of your soil and you should get your soiled tested so you know what you are working with. Your local county extension office can help you with that. I hope that helps! Best of luck and Happy Gardening! Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello, I live in Oklahoma City and last year I made a 4’x4’x12″ waste high elevated bed for veggies and it did not do as well as I hoped it would. So I was wondering will this soil mix work well with it since it does not sit on the ground or do you have a different mixture for elevated beds? I could sure use some help. Thank you in advance. Scott
Hi Scott-
Yes, this should work fine in your elevated beds. Here is another one of DaNelle’s article about soil that may be useful too: https://www.weedemandreap.com/get-superpowered-garden-soil/
Hopefully this can help and your garden does better this next growing season. Best of luck! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
hi i really wanted to know the size of your totally awesome raised bed!!!
Hi Sonia-
This is how DaNelle built her raised garden boxes: https://www.weedemandreap.com/build-raised-garden-boxes/
I hope this helps! Happy Gardening! Thanks -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi Danelle,
I live in south FL where it’s always humid, so would I add in only a small amount of coconut coir?? Also, which would you say is more important: the fungi, or the worm castings?
Hi Lea-
The amount of coconut coir you add is really dependent upon the structure of your soil. Coconut coir is used for its water retention properties, and to improve overall soil structure and aeration. So if you have a soil that drains too quickly (sandy soil), coconut coir can help retain moisture. Although if you have a heavy compacted soil (clayey soil) this can help loosen it up and allow it to drain properly.
It’s difficult to compare fungi and worm castings because they add different benefits to your garden. In my opinion they are equally important and both should be incorporated into your garden.
I hope this helps! Thanks for reading and posting! Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi DaNelle,
Thank you so much for the video and great information, I am new to gardening and am excited to try your method in an existing flowerbed, I have enough depth for one complete layer, is one layer enough? or should I take some of the existing soil out for more depth? also I have done some digging in my flower bed and I dont have any worms should I buy some worms to add to the soil before or after the layer of cardboard, if so how many worms?
Hi Lynn-
That’s great you are taking on gardening! One layer should be enough for your boxes. As for the worms, it would be best if you did purchase worms and added them to your garden or produce your own worm castings.
Here is link to purchasing worms: https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Jims-Worm-Farm-Composting/dp/B00F0MB40S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1501136072&sr=8-1&keywords=worms&linkCode=sl1&tag=weemre-20&linkId=69955776f209d3d403a3e2ee54ad6bf0
This is what DaNelle suggest in her worm casting article: https://www.weedemandreap.com/worm-castings-can-bring-soil/
I hope this helps! Best of luck and Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
So am I understanding correctly that potting soil and compost are interchangeable? I am new to gardening completely (as in only in the planning stage this Winter), and I’m so confused. Your article has cleared up so much for me already! But still this one question.
Hi Amber-
Great question! All the ins and outs of gardening definitely get confusing. Compost and potting soil are not interchangeable, but they can be similar depending on what is in them. The oversimplified answer is basically that compost is typically 100% organic material, while potting soil has some inorganic materials.
The YouTube video DaNelle made that goes along with this article does a great job explaining everything that needs to go into your raised garden box. You may have already watched it, but it’s a good one to follow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAMf9JEckFI&t=181s
I hope this helps and all goes well this winter and into the growing season! Happy Gardening! Thanks -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi DaNalle
We are moving to high desert in So.Calif so I’m eating up your growing stuff especially if related to heat. The backyard is nearly an acre…of sandish soil. Ha! So raised beds for us. I am thinking the mix you use will be good for our beds but we will still have to cover with shade cloth, yes? I mentioned to hubby we may want to invest in a greenhouse for starting plants or keeping the tropicals happy (bananas in the desert). Anyway, thank you so much for the soil mix!
Cheers!
Hi Vicky-
Congrats on the move, I hope all goes well! I do believe the raised beds and soil mix will work well for you! A shade cloth is a good idea to keep things from burning up, but if it is an eyesore or not allowed in your area, aim to plant a native tree first to provide shade. Here is a link to one of DaNelle’s articles that has a few tips in it that you may find helpful (even if you aren’t backyard farming). https://www.weedemandreap.com/hoa-approved-backyard-farm/
I included this article too since you mentioned the bananas. 🙂
I thought it went right along in the spirit of you growing tropicals!
https://www.weedemandreap.com/how-to-grow-an-avocado-tree-in-the-desert/
And since you mentioned greenhouse….https://www.weedemandreap.com/how-to-build-a-greenhouse/
Yes, DaNelle’s website is dangerous place…oh all the great amazing ideas you can find!! 😉
I hope all this helps! Best of luck on the move and everything else! Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hi Danielle,
Great post- I have a quick question: we just moved to northern WI and brought along our two 4×8 cedar beds. Would it be ok to put them in and add this soil mix this fall or should we just wait til spring? Or doesn’t it matter much? Thanks!
Hi Katie-
I hope WI is going well. You can definitely put the soil mix in now before winter hits. Allowing the soil to overwinter can actually help breakdown some of the compost even more and help mellow out your soil so it isn’t too “hot” from nitrates. After the winter it can be a good idea to do a soil test on your garden to see exactly what’s in your soil. Your local county extension office can help with this. If you find your garden is lacking in a certain mineral you can amend the soil before you begin planting, without adding in things you don’t need. I hope this helps. Best of luck and Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Question about raised beds:
I have four 3′ x 4′ x 1′ galvanized steel RB’s from Castle Creek that I want to place on my concrete driveway. They should drain OK as the bases don’t seal well. My plan is to use 3″ of coarse gravel, small stones, or construction rip-rap as a base, then continue filling with a normal soil mix. Do you see any glaring no-no’s with this? My son thinks the heat of the cement will transfer into the beds, I’m thinking it won’t as it’s not in full sun but for late afternoon on. BTW, we’re in zone 9a…
Hi Russ-
Heat can transfer to your beds from the concrete, which can continue to release heat even after the sun sets. This could possibly overheat or dry out your plants, increasing water needs. You can always place a thermometer in your garden area to check the heat and make sure it’s not becoming too hot for your plants. The rest sounds pretty good. Let us know how it goes. Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Can I use compost tea to water my pepper plants with this soil combination.
Hi DaNelle,
I’m so excited I came across your blog. I’m a beginner, but hope to turn my whole yard into a homestead. I have raised garden beds and had already gotten composted cow manure. I plan to sow seeds directly into the soil – if I follow the steps you’ve listed, along with what I already purchased, will this be too much for the seeds? What I’ve read has told me to be careful with seeds since they may not be strong enough to handle the fertilizers, nitrogen, etc.. I think? I’m not sure what I should do.
Thank you!!
Hi Stacy-
Yes, nitrogen can be “too hot” for plants and it will burn them. If you have put the composted cow manure in it, and you think the nitrogen will be too much, then thoroughly work it into the soil and let it sit for awhile to mellow out. Giving it time will all the microbes to break it down. If you want to get your seeds going, but don’t think the soil/compost has had time to mellow, then begin your seeds in planters, in or outdoors, and raise them up to seedlings.
You can also get a soil test through your local county extension office to see what exactly your soil’s ratio’s are. These soil tests can definitely test for Nitrogen and Phosphorus content, among a few other things. If you want to really know what your soil’s condition is, then I suggest contacting your Master Gardener’s program through the local county extension office and they can help you out.
I hope all this helps! Best of luck and Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
Hello DaNelle!
I’m so happy I found your blog! I’ve already gained so much knowledge from all your help! 🙂 This is my first year gardening and I also live in Arizona so it’s been especially helpful to have an Arizonan’s view on gardening. I live in Tucson now but will soon be moving to Flagstaff where it will (hopefully) be much easier to keep up. For now I do have a problem I’m hoping you could help me with.
I planted a few veggies in a 1:1 ratio of peat moss and vermiculite and was planning on transferring them to a raised garden bed in Flagstaff soon along with some compost. I chose not to use any soil because I read that it dries out too quickly and being in a hot climate thought the moisture would hold better, but some of my starting pots have started growing mold! Is it possible I have too much water retention? Maybe too much heat? Do you think they are able to be saved?
Hi Stephanie-
It does sound like you have too much water being held, most likely from the peat. Your ratio may be better off if you did a 1:2 (peat:vermiculite) to allow for some more drainage. Also, you may need to have more sunlight exposure, as this helps inhibit mold growth.
To try and save your plants you will need to scoop out the mold and let your soil mix dry out a bit. If it is molding all the way through, you may want to start over. However, if it isn’t too bad, remove the mold, allow it to dry, change up your ratio, sprinkle some cinnamon, baking soda, or apple cider vinegar on the top of your soil (these are natural anti-fungals), and see if this eliminates your mold problem.
Best of luck and Happy Gardening! -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
DaNelle,
I have completed layering all of the items in order you stated to use. Do I mix them up before I plant my herbs?
Yes, you can give it a little mix:)
Hi Danielle,
Would this work well for plants instead of vegetables?
Totally!
Hi Danielle – I am very excited to try this soil mixup for my new raised beds. I am wondering about end of season. Is it worth it to try and cover the boxes and save the soil for next season or does it all need to be replaced each year? Was thinking I could cover with plywood for the winter….
Hi Shaun,
You definitely should be saving the soil and reusing each year — in fact, soil gets better with time, so in year 3 or 4 you’ll have amazing soil full of microbes. All you should need to do before each planting is add a bucket or two of compost or worm castings to keep the soil happy going.
Yahoo! Great news. You should see my beds and vegetables after just three weeks – amazing. Thanks so much for this great information.
Hi DaNelle,
New gardener here..your post was extremely helpful, thank you! One thing is still unclear to me after a lot of internet research though, do I need to regularly add any amendments and/or fertilizer to the soil throughout the growing process? I was planning on doing potatoes, onions and kale if that helps you provide a more accurate answer.
Thanks for any input you provide!
Yes, you will. I would say 2-4 times a year. It’s not an exact science, I’ll throw in mainly worm castings, fish emulsion, and then I’ll add some wood ash or bone meal, too.
Hi! How many 11 lb. coconut coir cubes would I need for 5- 4×4 15” T beds? I’m having a hard time finding them locally and have to order online and pay lots in shopping so I want to get it right. Thanks
Hi Amber-
You will only put a couple inches of coconut coir in the boxes. An 11# cube typically makes 18-19 gallons. So you should need about one cube per box. If you look on Amazon often you can find free shipping.
Thank you -Bobbi (DaNelle’s Assistant)
This is such a helpful blog. So glad I came across it, just wish it was sooner!! I started my first raised garden 1 week ago and just realized I used “in ground” garden soil. Am I going to get hounded by my wife for screwing this up, or will this still work with some additional knowledge from the one and only DaNelle? I planted the seeds 1 week ago and would love to not have to replant. Again, I wish I came across your blog before I bought the soil! Love it!
What do you add to your raised garden bed the 2nd year to re-use your bed?
Hi DaNelle,
I love your video. I live in South Carolina and the soil is sandy. Very hard to grow in it. So I am planning on building raised beds with 2 x 10 cedar. They will be 4′ x 20′. I plan on using your recipe exactly, but I have a couple of questions. 1) is the 10 inch height of the bed enough for the root system, 2) can you buy the coconut coir in bulk or is that difficult to find. 3) if I opt for the peat moss do you need to replace it year to year?4 I have yet to see worms in the dirt here, would I buy some to start my garden with?
I appreciate any feedback you have. Thanks.
Hi John,
All you should need is a foot for root growth, though many people go 18 inches as well. The coconut coir is easy to find, I link to it in the article above:) I’ve noticed the peat moss doesn’t break down faster than coconut coir, but it’s just becoming harder and harder to find.
Hi Danelle I just wanted to know we’re I could by the native soil. Thanks for being a YouTuber.
I would just go in the yard and get whatever soil you can. If you can’t find native soil just use extra potting soil:)
I am getting ready to get all the items needed to plant this weekend. I see that you use one potting soil in the video and a different one when ordering where you say – click here to buy – this was Black Gold. Does it matter? and how much would I need for a 4 x 8 bed the way you have instructed above.
In other words, I get the process just don’t know how much to buy for my size beds…..
Thanks again so much, I am so energized by this site!!!
Hi Julie,
In the video, I am using a local supplier here, but they are exactly the same. Black Gold is a great potting soil! I can’t give you an exact amount because it depends on how tall your raised garden boxes are, but you can look on the bags and it should say how many cubic square feet it’ll cover!
I too was very excited to find someone that understands our Phoenix issues with water, soil, etc. I live in the Arcadia area in what was a citrus grove, I know the ground can grow trees at least. My confusion is the irrigation we get. I bought 2 taller raised beds from Amazon (24″ tall on legs) because of our flood irrigation. Then I read about the strawberries under your pine tree and that you get irrigation too. Instead of buying more tall raised beds, could I go ahead and garden right on the grass in our yard? Would everything be ruined with the irrigation? Plus the amount of weeds and bugs in the irrigation is very high.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi Julie,
That’s a tough one and one I struggle with as well. Because our Bermuda is so invasive, it will often choke out plants and take away it’s nutrients. I’ve had most success here by either doing raised garden beds OR planting in the ground, but first cutting away the bermuda, then mixing compost into the soil with a tiller. To keep the grass from coming in, after my seedlings sprout, I put a deep layer of mulch (about 6 inches). If you raise the soil a bit, this can too be irrigated, but it just takes some good planning:)
I stumbled across your YouTube account when exploring my options for raised beds in our new Suburban “Homestead” backyard (I use the term very lightly haha, still dreaming!) & have found it extremely useful! Here in Central Texas our climate is similar to yours so I will be putting the coconut coir to the test. I am loving all of the wonderful content on your blog, good luck this year! I look forward to watching your family reach your farm goals this year.
I LOVE this blog! I’ve been meaning to build a garden for a year now and have the box but not the motivation. My 3 year old son has been asking me every day when will we build the garden, so I’m finally getting a crack at it. We live in South FL and our bed is 12 in high. I’m assuming my proportions will be a little different than you suggest in the video which I can figure out and don’t think really matter as long as I keep the proportions. But my question is ‘should I use compost as my base (as in the article) or potting soil (as in the video)? Does it matter?
Potting soil has some other amendments in them, but I would totally use compost as a base:)
Hi DaNelle,
I’m going to use this soil mix recipe for our new raised beds this year. I am a bit confused though after reading some of the responses; I’m hoping you could clarify for me. I’m doing 3×8 beds to stick with the same sizes you have listed; for the coco coir you say to use 50%…if I calculate the size of going 3’X8’X10″ it comes out to 15 cubic feet per bed (total soil or soil mix). The coco coir you’ve linked on your site will make about 2.5 cubic feet, so I would need 3 blocks of coco coir per bed. I did notice you told responded to one of the reply’s of someone in Jersey telling them to use 25% coco coir instead of 50%. I’m in south eastern PA so my weather is similar to his…how do I know what is the right ratio of coco coir to compost?
Also, you mentioned that you just put worm castings on the soil moving forward before every planting. Does this mean that I only do this mix once and then every year I can just using worm castings? It seems that the compost would lose it’s beneficial nutrients and the coco coir would break down over time.
Thanks in advance for help with this….and great site by the way!!
I wouldn’t worry too much about getting an exact amount of coconut coir, it’s very forgiving. You could do 25% if you like. Yes, once it’s all mixed, I simply add more compost or worm castings on the top before planting.
DaNelle,
Are we making a mistake putting wood ash on our beds? We use composted horse manure, but haven’t added any other supplements.. thank you
Brent and Laura
Wood ash is another great amendment and a good source of potassium.
Hi DaNelle! Thanks for the fab blog post- incredibly helpful. I’m a rookie gardener and I’ve been struggling with the existing garden beds of my mum’s new (for her) house. Essentially half of the existing garden bed is rock hard soil filled with large stones and old root systems. The other half has been relatively amendable and I have a flourishing veggie garden. Instead of pouring hundreds of hours into de-rocking the garden bed, I’m hoping to build a raised garden bed directly on top of the soil? Can you kindly advise if this is indeed something I could do and advise on how best to layer. The existing garden bed structure is made of cement.
Hi Kelly,
As long as you have a good 18 inches before you hit the hard soil, you should be fine to grow veggies, herbs, & fruits there!
Lots of information and nice video, Thank you. Can I use peat moss instead of coconut coir? Two reasons: 1. I read that Coconut coir may give inconsistent result, depends on its source. 2. It may also carry disease as it is mostly imported.
I am new for gardening. I just finished making my two 4′ x 7′ cedar raised bed with 14″ deep, yet to fill with soil and all the amendments. Today is October 6th. I live in Atlanta, GA, first frost is in the middle on November.
Can I start to grow fall/winter crops using hoops and garden cover as the winter approach (green house method) using the same soil mix that you suggested ? or Do I have to make any chance in soil mix for winter gardening? Please advise.
Sure, you can use peat moss, but it isn’t sustainable, meaning, it will eventually run out.
omg, i love you!!!!! you’re my life saver.
i’m in hot ass Florida. I want to do raised bed vegetable gardens for fall.
Once you laid down the cardboard and put all of the soil, etc down, how long do you have to wait until you can start planting? I am guessing that i need to give it time for the cardboard to decompose and the grass to die underneath??
Also, what would be “native” soil for Fl? We have sand, not clay?
Hahaha, this is the best comment ever! You can start planting right away with this method. The cardboard will break down over time on it’s own. If you can’t use native soil (like just some soil from your backyard) then just add more potting soil on the bottom:)
Thank you!! Also, loving the animals with flower crowns on Instagram ! 🙂
Haha, thank you! I love those pics, too!
This is such a great article. I love reading it.
HI Danelle! I recently found your blog have attempted growing a garden three times in my raised garden beds with no luck. I was told to do half ground dirt, so we got dirt from a local nursery and loaded it in our truck and then half compost. I mixed everything together and all of my plants grew only a couple inches and then just completely stopped growing, they didn’t die but they never got bigger. Do you suggest starting over and removing dirt from my boxes and using your method? Is there anything I can do to fix my beds without removing everything? Any advice would be soooo helpful! Thank you!
Hi Samantha, the same thing happened to me the first time I gardened! The reason why your plant only grow a little and stop is because there isn’t sufficient nutrients in the soil. Here’s what I’d do if I were you…I’d add coconut coir & worm castings to the soil. (Azomite would be good as well). The coconut coir will help keep the moisture & nutrients in, while the other two will provide nutrients. If you have too much soil already in the boxes, simply take some out first and store until you need it again. (You’ll notice that the soil levels will lower as you garden each season, so it’ll be helpful to have some on hand for that.
I love watching your video. It does realy help and your idea is excelent.
What would you recommend people do after a couple of years to keep the soil rich? The soil in my boxes worked great for the first few years, but now it’s depleted and I’m not sure what to add to get it back to a nice rich state. I’ve tried cover crops, which didn’t seem to help too much, and adding cow manure and other fertilizers. I think I may be doing something wrong.
Are you mixing in any straw, wood chips, leaves, etc. into your soil? If so, this could be blocking the nitrogen from getting to your plants. The other thing I would recommend is to add worm castings to your soil (about 1 20 lb. bag for every 4×8 box), then put a TOP layer of mulch (straw, wood chips, leaves) and then water the soil. It will become nice and rich!
Thanks! That’s really helpful.
You’ve got to help me! I used your advice and filled my raised bed with 50% compost and 50% coconut like you suggested. Now I’m 5 weeks in and my veggies aren’t growing ! all of the seeds sprouted right away no problem but they haven’t done a THING since then. Anything I’ve put in planters is doing fantastic but my entire raised garden is stunted with tiny seedlings. What am I doing wrong?! And how do I fix this?! TIA
Hi Christine!
Have you added any of the plant food to your soil? The compost and coconut coir is the base, or the medium. But, in order to provide nutrients, you’ll need worm castings and fish emulsion at the very least. It also helps to add the fungi & azomite for a complete soil combo:) Right now, you can make a diluted fish emulsion mixture and that should give your plants nitrogen to grow.
This is great information thank you so much for writing this article! After the first year of growing how do you replenish the soil? Do you have to go through this entire process every year?
Hi Jason,
This is the best part! Maintaining it is a breeze! I just add some worm castings to the top soil before each planting to help keep the nitrogen levels perfect.
Hi DaNelle,
Thanks for sharing this information. My husband and I have a worm composted. One thing we never seem to get quite right is the amount of worm casting to use in amending the soil. Is there a formula you use?
Thanks
Rebecca
Hi Rebecca,
How do you know if you’re not using the right amount? I’ve always just done as much as I can (most of the time it’s around 1 bag for every raised garden bed) and things do well for me:)
HI! Thanks so much for your post! I had a few questions..I am new to gardening, I will have 2 beds that are 10 x 5 and one 4 x3, in your post you say 1 bag of worm castings per 3×8 bed but which size bag are you referring to?
Also in the beds do you not use top soil at all? many places have recomended 50/50 compost to topsoil
Also I will have some berry plants else where along my house, I saw you said you use peat moss for those for the pH do you use all this other stuff also?
Thanks!!!!
Nicole
Hi Nicole,
Right next to worm castings, I have a link titled “where to buy” and you’ll see the brand and size bag I recommend:) You can do top soil as well, it won’t change things much:)
My sons and husband just built a few raised beds for me – one 4 X 8 and two 2 X 8. I was going to mix the soil as you described; however, they convinced me to by a Garden Soil Mix that is made in the local area. This mix is a 50/50 blend of river-bottom topsoil and what they call “Black Gold compost” that is suipposed to be perfect for enhancing soil in raised garden beds and planting areas with clay or rock bases. Before I ordered this Garden Soil Mix, I had already purshased several blocks of coconut coir, a 45 lb bag of azomite rock dust, three 30 lb bags of earth worm castings, and 2 bags of Extreme Mykos. I have many plants (a variety of heirloom tomatoes, peppers, herbs, flowers…) that I started the last week of February (they’re getting huge) and I need to “harden”them and get out into the ground. Can I still add the coconut coir, castings, azomite, and mykos to these beds or will it be too hot? (I made my own potting soil for inside from Miracle Grow moisture retention, coir, Black Kow Compost, and vermiculite, and I like the way it “feels”.) Please advise soonest. Thanks!
Yes, you can still add the amendments to the garden soil mix, it will only make it better, so it can’t do any harm:) Just be sure to mix it in well!
I love this post! So helpful! I live in Iowa (zone 5) and the weather here is totally unpredictable. Last summer we had tones of rain but other summers a total drought. I have no idea how much coconut coir I should purchase. I have three raised beds that are about 4×8. Would you mind giving me your opinion?
Hi Becki!
At the least, there should be 1 block of coconut coir per 4×8 box. In AZ, we are so dry that I do two per box, so it depends on your weather:)
HI,
I’ve tried the Mel’s Mix approach and had decent results but after a few years, its time to make some changes. I have six inch beds now and will be building them up to 12 inch. I’m going to leave the existing soil on the bottom (since I know works are in it already) and just build up the next six inches of bed using your method.
After layering (and before the fish emulsion) ,did you mix it all together or just leave it layered?
Thanks.
Hi Greg,
I layer, but very lightly. When I water, it all mixes together:)
Would this combination work in a more humid or wet climate as in New Jersey?
Hi James,
If you have a wet climate, I would use 75% compost and 25% coconut coir.
Hi DaNelle,
I have never been able to grow anything and have waisted a lot of time and money over the years. However I have convinced my husband to let me try once more using your advice. I am building one raised bed to begin with. I went to Summer Winds Nursery yesterday in Mesa (Eric was awesome) to look for and price soil and amendments. They sell a product called Mel’s Mix that has most of your recommendations already mixed in. Are you familure with this product and could I use it in place of gathering all the ingredients separately?
Thank you for your help.
Kelly
Yes, that should be fine! If I were you, I’d add some coconut coir just to be sure it’s retaining moisture!
“Mel’s Mix” refers to Mel Bartholomew, author of the Square Foot Gardening series of books. They are well worth buying if you are new to gardening, or have been unsuccessful in the past.
Hi DaNelle – We have tall raised beds that we originally filled with half regular soil and half ‘organic garden soil’ that we got from a reputable place. When we planted for the first time, all the plants (carrots, peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers and strawberries), grew to miniature size and stopped. They didn’t die, but didn’t continue to grow. About 8 months later we got one thumb-size cucumber, a few toothpick-size carrots, one heirloom tomato the size of a silver dollar and one miniature pepper. I tried adding fish emulsion but it didn’t help. Do you think we need to remove all the soil and start again (eeek)? Or can we just try adding in the amendments you list? Would love your opinion. Thank you!
Hi Amber,
This same exact thing happened to me one of my first years. The organic garden soil is a good growing medium to start with, but amendments are where you can really build soil.
When plants grow a little, then halt, it’s usually because there’s a lack of nitrogen in the soil. This can be remedied with a full back of worm castings mixed into your raised garden bed.
A lot of times, a garden soil may still have some uncomposted bits of wood that can lock up any nitrogen in the soil, so adding the worm castings will make a huge difference for you next year!
Thank you so much, Danelle! We will definitely give the castings a try!
Hi DaNelle,
I wrote you earlier in a comment….I’m going nuts and our plans keep changing for this project. we are now going to make our own soil mix. what do you suggest? is it okay that we aren’t using any ground dirt? i thought i found some on craigslist, but every place wants a deliver fee of like 200 bucks. i can buy clean soil that i know is clean at lowes….what do you suggest? i feel like i’m loosing my marbles. Thanks!
Hi Amber!
It’s totally fine to take out the ground dirt and just use potting mix/coconut coir as your base! Good luck!
Hi there, I think I’m just a little confused. In your video, you layered the different soils and amendments. But do you not mix them all up? In my mind it seems like that would make things uneven if you dont. Can you explain please?
Hi Payton,
If you layer thinly, you don’t need to mix much, except with your hands a bit:) Hope that helps!
I’m a new gardener. So please, excuse my rookie question. We have a pond that was re-dug and thus have a pile of dirt on our property. I was hoping to use this as our dirt in our raised beds. Is this a good or bad idea? Please explain either way. Thanks!
Hi Diane!
Wonderful idea! Pond water is one of the most nutrient sources for gardens. Some people will build ponds just to water their gardens with it. I say, go for it!
We started about five (5) years ago with one (1) part top soil (in you case pond dirt) two (2) parts compost (I prefer mushroom) and one (1) part sand for good drainage. I have added one part compost (mushroom and food scraps) each year after. I also fertilize with organic fish emulsion at a rate of one (1) tablespoon per gallon once a month. We also use a drip system for irrigation to conserve water, Rain water and pump from the lake when there is no rain. This is good water and keeps our water bill down also.
I do not claim to be any kind of an expert, but this has given us great results on approximately 600 square feet of vegetables plus the strawberry and melon patches and flower beds.
If interested, please contact me. I am always willing to give more details and share tips that I have learned from others.
This is such a great post! Thank you! I also live in the Phoenix area and am curious if you have a nursery to recommend. I have three empty garden boxes to fill this week!
How exciting! I LOVE any of the Summer Winds Nurseries and they’re all over the valley:)